The Ultimate Guide to Grading: Risks, Rewards, and Everything You Need to Know
If you’ve been collecting Pokémon cards — whether vintage, modern, or somewhere in between — chances are you’ve asked yourself at some point:
“Should I grade this card?”
It’s a big question. Grading can skyrocket the value of a card… or leave you with an expensive slab that nobody wants. So before you jump into submitting your favorites to PSA, BGS, CGC, or another grading service, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know — from benefits and prep to risk vs. reward, and who you should trust.
📦 What Does Grading a Pokémon Card Mean?
Grading a card means sending it to a third-party grading company that will professionally authenticate, inspect, and score your card on a scale (typically 1–10). It’s then sealed in a protective case (slab) and returned to you with its official grade, which can significantly affect its value and desirability.
✅ The Benefits of Grading Pokémon Cards
1. Increased Value
A card graded PSA 10, BGS 9.5, or CGC 9+ can be worth 2x to 10x more than its raw (ungraded) version — sometimes even more for vintage or scarce modern cards.
2. Authentication
Grading confirms the card is genuine and not a counterfeit — which is especially important with valuable or vintage pieces.
3. Protection
Cards come back encased in tamper-proof, archival-quality plastic slabs, protecting them from damage, moisture, and UV light.
4. Market Confidence
Buyers are much more confident purchasing graded cards. They know exactly what they’re getting, and you eliminate subjective “NM” or “LP” (Near Mint/Light Play) guesswork.
5. Long-Term Investment
High-grade cards, especially from reputable grading services, are far more stable over time in both value and demand — making them excellent long-term holds.
🔧 The Prep Work: How to Prepare Cards for Grading
Grading isn’t just a “send it and hope” process. If you want a high grade, preparation is key:
✨ Step 1: Inspect Your Cards
Use a bright light and magnifying glass to check for:
- Whitening on edges
- Print lines or holo scratches
- Centering issues
- Surface scuffs or dents
Even small flaws can drop a card from a 10 to a 9 or lower.
🧤 Step 2: Handle with Care
Use clean hands, or better yet, gloves. Avoid touching the surface. Always handle from the edges.
🛡️ Step 3: Sleeve and Topload
Insert the card into a penny sleeve, then into a card saver (preferred by PSA) or top loader. Avoid anything too tight or bulky.
📝 Step 4: Choose the Right Submission Tier
Most grading companies offer different service levels (bulk, standard, express) with varying costs and turnaround times. Consider value and urgency.
💸 The Risk vs. Reward of Grading
🎲 The Risks:
- Cost: Grading fees range from $15–$100+ per card, depending on the service level and card value.
- Subjectivity: Even perfect-looking cards can score a 9 or lower based on microscopic flaws or grading standards.
- Long Waits: Especially with PSA or BGS, turnaround times can take weeks or months, unless you pay for express service.
- Low Grades Can Hurt: If your card comes back a PSA 6–7, it might be worth less than it was raw after you account for grading costs.
💎 The Rewards:
- PSA 10s or CGC 9.5s can command massive premiums — especially for iconic, rare, or freshly hyped cards.
- You turn a collectible into a certified asset, which adds legitimacy and prestige.
- Graded cards are easier to sell or auction, especially to serious collectors or investors.
🏢 Which Grading Company Should You Use? (2025 Edition)
🔴 PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator)
- Reputation: The gold standard. Most recognized brand in grading.
- Grading Scale: 1–10
- Pros: Highest resale value, broadest buyer trust, iconic red & white label
- Cons: High volume = slower turnaround, strict on some modern cards
- Best For: Vintage, high-value modern, investment-grade cards
⚫ BGS (Beckett Grading Services)
- Reputation: Known for subgrades (centering, surface, corners, edges) and black-label 10s
- Pros: Black Label = grail status; subgrades give detail
- Cons: Harsher grading, difficult to score 10s
- Best For: Condition-purists, ultra-rare modern cards, or flex-worthy slabs
🔵 CGC (Certified Guaranty Company)
- Reputation: Originally known for comics, now respected in Pokémon
- Pros: Consistent grading, clean labels, lower-cost bulk options
- Cons: Lower resale value than PSA/BGS (though gaining ground)
- Best For: Budget bulk grading, modern cards, PC slabs
🟢 Other Players: AGS, TCGC, Ace Grading (UK), etc.
- Pros: Niche appeal, automation, flashy labels
- Cons: Lower trust, less resale value, not widely recognized
- Best For: Fun slabs, personal collections, display-only grading
📊 Who Offers the Best ROI?
PSA still dominates the resale market. A PSA 10 generally sells higher than the same card in CGC 9.5 or BGS 9.
That said:
- BGS Black Labels can fetch massive premiums due to rarity
- CGC 10 Pristine cards are gaining popularity with investors
- Lower-cost cards? CGC bulk grading may offer the best risk/reward ratio
🧠 So… Should You Grade Your Card?
Here’s a quick checklist to help decide:
✅ Is the card clean, centered, and flawless to the naked eye?
✅ Is it rare, popular, or highly collectible?
✅ Would it gain significant value with a PSA 9 or 10 grade?
✅ Are you comfortable risking the cost and wait?
If you answered yes to most of these — grading is likely worth it.
If the card is damaged, common, or low-value, you might be better off keeping it raw or saving the grading fee for a better candidate.
🏁 Final Thoughts: Grading is a Tool, Not a Requirement
At the end of the day, grading is one of the most powerful tools in your collector toolbox — but it’s not for every card or every collector.
Whether you’re building a long-term investment binder, flipping rare pulls, or just want to protect that one perfect Charizard from your childhood — grading can add value, protection, and prestige.
But remember: not every card needs to be graded to be meaningful. Sometimes, a raw card in a binder tells a better story than a number in a slab.